Friday, February 13, 2009

Traveling in Senegal

So last weekend we went to Lac Rose, about 2 or 3 hours outside of Dakar. It is a pink lake that is so salty and makes you float so much that you can barely swim.

We succeeded in gettting taxis to take us to Ker Moussa Monastery for mass that sunday morning, and we paid them to stay during the mass and then take us to Lac Rose afterward. It was all fine, we got to the monastery and there was a little dispute over how long the taxi drivers would need to wait, but we worked it out and went to mass. The mass was great-- the monks sang gregorian chant and hymns in Wolof and French and there were drums and other percussion instruments! Very cool music! I bought a CD of it, too, so we can listen to it when I next see you. After mass, we got back in the taxis and very soon, our driver pulled to the side of the road and said that the taxi had "tombe en panne"-- that is to say that it had broken down. We soon found out that this was a lie, as our driver didn't want to take us all the way to Lac Rose and had arranged for someone else to take us the rest of the way to Lac Rose.

Soon this new guy shows up, and the taxi driver arranges for us to take the rest of our trip with him. We were all really weary of this-- we all thought it was just some random guy with a car that our taxi driver had arranged for, but perhaps it was an unmarked taxi? Hmm we were aware that this could be dangerous but figured that there was a big group of us during the middle of the day so it would be ok. Also, this is Senegal-- spontaneous adventures like this happen, right?

Soon we see police officers on the side of the road that flag us down. We were all definitely REALLY worried... the man driving us was either a random guy or an unmarked taxi driver, and we were paying him to drive us. We didn't know if this offense was serious or not here in Senegal, so I was definitely thinking this might become more of an adventure than I had planned!

Our driver gets out of the car and goes over to the officers. We couldn't see everything that went on, but I do know that here in Senegal any officer has the right to demand ID at any time, even if you are walking on the street. (We talked about this in orientation--very important to have a passport copy with you all the time.) During orientation they told us that there are definitely some corrupt officers that have been known to ask for ID and then say that it isn't valid, and expect a bribe!!!!!! WOW crazy! But of course our program director said that sometimes bribes don't work, that you would get in more trouble later for even having offered a bribe.

So I am not sure whether our driver paid a bribe or not, I don't think he did, but nevertheless he had to show his ID. Then he got back in the car and apparently there was not a problem. Whew! Relief! I was definitely a bit worried there as we were waiting in the car!

So we get to Lac Rose and the tourism is crazy beyond belief. It drives me up a wall, it is so incredibly annoying and difficult for me to deal with. Vendors are in your face and flock to you like nothing else. Some vendors even handed some goods to people in our group, which of course means that you have to pay for it or look at more of the stuff they are selling. Vendors are super nice to you when they think you will buy something, they will say, "English is so good, America good," etc. They will compliment you, everything.

I was really trying to ignore the vendors. I hate people in my face, I don't want vendors to hand me goods that I don't want. After ignoring one vendor for a while, she thoroughly changed her tone and wagged her finger in my face, saying "English no good. You-- no good. You-- Very bad," as she walked away from me. Crazy.

At the lake we took a pirogue (a boat) into the lake a ways and explored the area and learned about the people who mine salt from the lake and sell it. The lake was beautiful and indeed pink during the afternoon. Soon it was time for us to leave, we take a "Kat Kat" vehicle-- it is a safari/army looking vehicle. About 30 minutes into the drive we run out of gas, and pull over on the side of the road and wait for one of the two drivers to walk to go get gas. We are in a rural area in the middle of the afternoon, very hot, and some people stop to see why we are stopped, but soon a big truck of Lebanese dirt bikers pull up and offer to share some of the gas they have. haha it was great, they chatted with our group for a while, what teranga (hospitality)!! Before getting back to Dakar we definitely had to stop a few more times for the drivers to check the engine. I am definitely in Senegal! When traveling, the concept of time is definitely really relaxed compared to the US, and you need to have a mindset open to adventure and realize that anything could happen!

Unfortunately that night I realized that my camera was missing. I don't know if it was stolen by someone at Lac Rose (it is known for pickpockets) or if I thought I put it in by backpack but instead dropped it on the floor of the KatKat vehicle? Either way I have searched my stuff thoroughly and cannot find it. I am trying not to think about my pictures that I lost, certainly the memories I have are most important. I will try to hopefully get a new camera soon to take more pictures to share with you.

Good job if you are still reading this and followed my story this far. Kind of lengthy! :)

Yendul ak jamm! (Have a peaceful day/have a good day!)
Beth

1 comment:

  1. Wow is all I can say. I can imagine how the tourist stuff can be annoying, especially since you went over to live in Senegal like a Senegalese for a semester. It's fascinating to read all the adventures and descriptions you give. You should write a book about this! You seem to handle everything with calmness, remind me to travel with you next time I want to travel abroad :), I tend to get frustrated easily! I hope you figure out the camera situation soon.

    Love,
    Sadia

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